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NORTHERN TERRITORY
Alice Springs | Darwin | Katherine | Tennants Creek | Uluru (Ayers Rock)

Darwin
Population 72,900
Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory and Australia's most northerly city, is situated on the tropical north coast by the Arafura Sea. Darwin is actually closer to South East Asia than to some Australian capitals. For example, Denpasar in Indonesia is 1900km (1181 miles) from Darwin, while Sydney is 3200km (1988 miles) away.

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Climate

Average temperatures: January max 32C (90F) - min 25C(77F); July max 30C (86F) - min 19C (66F). The average annual rainfall is 1525mm (60 in), and mostly falls between November and April.

Characteristics
Through the decades, Darwin town gained a reputation as a frontier of prawn trawlers, buffalo-catchers, croc shooters and wild waterfront bars. It was the boozing capital of a thirsty nation. Records show the first European explorers arrived in 1623 aboard the Dutch ship, Arnhem. In the early 1820s, the British began establishing military outposts in northern Australia, hoping to establish a stronger claim to the region than their Dutch and French rivals.

Darwin Harbour was discovered in 1839 by the first officer of the HMS Beagle, and was named in honour of Charles Darwin, who had sailed on an earlier expedition on the ship. It was a strategic outpost for the British during World War II, and suffered tremendous damage during 64 air raids, with the loss of 243 lives. The Tiwi people on Bathurst Island, who were the first to see the Japanese bombers, perform a corroboree that tells the story. On December 24, 1974, Darwin was struck by one of the greatest natural disasters in Australian history, Cyclone Tracy, which left only about 500 of the city's then 8000 homes habitable.

Today Darwin is considered a relaxed tropical city with a relatively young population numbering above 70,000.

How to Get There
By Air
Darwin Airport caters for international and domestic flights. International services include Qantas, Royal Brunei, Garuda, Singapore and Merpati. Frequent interstate services to all capital cities and many major centres are provided by Qantas. The airport is approximately 8km (5 miles) from the city centre.

The Darwin Airport Bus Service departs regularly for the city from the airport, and services all city accommodation. There is a taxi rank at the airport, and the trip takes about 10 minutes. Darwin Radio Taxis, 13 1008, has a direct telephone link for airport bookings. Taxis can be multi-hired and mini-bus taxis are available on request.

By Sea
International cruise ships call at Darwin throughout the year, and cargo ships, naval vessels and private cruising yachts also use the port.

By Rail
There is no rail link to Darwin. The Ghan, runs through central Australia from Adelaide to Alice Springs, connecting with express coach services to Darwin along the Stuart Highway.

By Bus
Greyhound Pioneer have services to Darwin from Adelaide via Alice Springs; Brisbane via Mt Isa; and Perth via the Kimberleys.

By Road
From Adelaide, via the Stuart Highway.
From Queensland, via the Barkly Highway.
From Western Australia, via the Victoria Highway.

Tourist Information
The Northern Territory Visitors Centre is on the first floor, 22 Cavenagh Street, (08) 8941 1824 or email info@northernterritory. com

The Northern Territory Tourist Commission has its head office in Darwin at 43 Mitchell Street, (08) 8999 3900.

Both can organise accommodation, tour bookings, foreign exchange, luggage storage, airport shuttle bus tickets and tourist information.

Brochures are available on exploring the National Parks of the Northern Territory, 4WD travel, Aboriginal tours, fishing, boating, and many other interests.

A couple of websites to visit are www.tourismtopend.com.au and www.ntholidays.com.au

Accommodation
Accommodation in Darwin can be found to suit all price ranges and preferences. There are 5-star luxury through to medium priced and budget priced accommodation. There are also serviced apartments and 'self-catered' rooms with kitchen facilities, as well as caravan parks and camping areas. Backpackers and youth hostellers are well catered for in the city centre. Here is a selection, with prices for a double room per night, which should be used as a guide only. The telephone area code is 08.

All Seasons Premier Darwin Central Hotel, cnr Smith & Knuckey Streets, 8944 9000. Ê132 rooms, licensed restaurant, bistro, swimming pool $175-195.
Rydges Plaza Hotel Darwin, 32 Mitchell Street, 8982 0000. 233 rooms, licensed restaurant, undercover parking, swimming pool, gym, spa $160-260.
Holiday Inn Darwin, 122 Esplanade, 8981 5388. 183 rooms, licensed restaurant, swimming pool, barbecue $125-200.
All Seasons Frontier Darwin, 3 Buffalo Court, 8981 5333. 84 rooms, licensed restaurant, swimming pool, barbecue $105-165.
Darwin Phoenix Motel, 63 Progress Drive, Nightcliff, 8985 4144. 57 units, licensed restaurant, swimming pool, barbecue $80-90.
Don Hotel Motel, 12 Cavenagh Street, 8981 5311. 38 units (private facilities), licensed restaurant (closed Sun-Mon), swimming pool $70-80.
Poinciana Inn, cnr McLachlan & Mitchell Streets, 8981 8111. 51 units, licensed restaurant, swimming pool $95-130.
Asti Motel, cnr Smith Street & Packard Place, 8981 8200. 86 units, licensed restaurant, swimming pool, spa $105-120.
Value Inn Motel, 50 Mitchell Street, 8981 4733. 93 units (private facilities), swimming pool $70-75.

Serviced Apartments
Marrakai, 93 Smith Street, 8982 3711. 30 apartments, swimming pool, spa, barbecue $190.
City Gardens, 93 Woods Street, 8941 2888. 16 two-bedroom units, swimming pool, barbecue $135-150.
Coconut Grove, 146 Dickward Drive, Coconut Grove, 8985 0500. 35 Êsuites, swimming pool $100-160.
Peninsular Apartments, 115 Smith Street, 8981 1922. 36 studio units, swimming pool, licensed bar $105-125.

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Caravan Parks

Coolalinga Caravan Park, Stuart Highway, Howard Springs, 8983 1026. (Dogs allowed on leash) 101 sites, good facilities, swimming pool - powered sites $18 for two, cabins $60 for two.
Palms Village Resort, 907 Stuart Highway, Berrimah, 8935 0888. (Pets allowed by arrangement) 400 sites, excellent facilities, barbecue, pool - powered sites $24 for two, cabins $90 for two.
Shady Glen Caravan Park, cnr Stuart Highway & Farrell Crescent, Winnellie, 8984 3330. (No pets allowed) 280 sites, swimming pool - powered sites $22 for two, on-site vans $50 for two.
Howard Springs Caravan Park, 170 Whitewood Road, Howard Springs, 8983 1169. (No pets allowed) 170 sites, swimming pool - powered sites $20 for two, cabins $80 for two.

Local Transport
Bus
The Darwin Bus Service, 8924 5463, has a city terminus in Harry Chan Avenue, and from there services the city area as well as the suburbs of Casuarina and Palmerston. hBuses run every day except Sunday, and there are extended services during special events and festivals. The Tour Tub, an open air bus, has a set route around the city, inner suburbs and most tourist attractions. hThe bus runs on the hour, and day tickets can be purchased allowing you to stop anywhere and reboard when another bus comes, 8981 5233.

Taxi
Darwin taxis operate around the clock and can be found at taxi ranks, hotels and transport terminals, or you can hail them in the street. The city rank is outside Woolworths in Knuckey Street, and there are also ranks in the suburbs. Following are a few numbers for taxi services 8981 3777, 8981 2222, 13 1008, 8947 3333.

Car
Most of the major car rental companies have offices in Darwin, and they require a current driver's licence and a deposit. Most also offer 4WD vehicles.

Avis, 8981 9922; Budget Campervans, 8981 0148; Budget Rent A Car, 13 2727; Hertz Rent A Car NT, 1800 891 112; Territory Thrifty Car Rental, 8924 0000.

The Automobile Association of the Northern Territory has an office in Darwin at 81 Smith Street, 8981 3837, and reciprocal membership is offered to members of affiliated international and interstate auto clubs. AANT has emergency road service and carries a comprehensive list of road maps. Leaded, unleaded, LPG and diesel are available at almost all filling stations.

Most stations are open 7am-6pm, while a few are open 24 hours-a-day.

Ferries
The MV Darwin Duchess leaves Stokes Hill Wharf on weekdays for cruises to Mandorah. For timetables and bookings contact Mondaorah Ferry Service, 8978 5015.

Eating Out
Darwin is a melting pot of people and cultures, so it is not surprising that this is reflected in the restaurants of the city. ÊWhether you want Creole, Italian, Thai, Greek, French, Chinese, Mexican, Indian or Malaysian, you will not be disappointed. Or, you can be adventurous and go for kangaroo, buffalo, crocodile or camel, maybe for the first time. Whatever your fancy, the Visitor Information Centre has a complete list of eateries. Here are a few names and addresses:

Charlie's, cnr Knuckey Street & Austin Lane, 8981 3298 - licensed, Mediterranean food - hopen daily 11am-2pm, Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight, Sun 6-10pm.
Guiseppe's Italian Restaurant, 64 Smith Street, 8941 3110.
Alchemy Restaurant, 130 Smith Street, 8941 2126.
Castaways BBQ Restaurant, cnr The Esplanade & Peel Street, 8941 0755.
Sizzler Steak Seafood Salad Restaurant, Cinema Centre, Mitchell Street, 8941 2225.
Rooftop Restaurant, 3 Buffalo Court, 8981 5333.
Magic Wok Restaurant, 48 Cavenagh Street, 8981 3332.
Hanuman Thai Restaurant, 28 Mitchell Street, 8941 3500.ÊWaterhole Restaurant, cnr Knuckey St & Smith Street, 8944 9120.
La Chaumiere Restaurant, 13 Shepherd Street, 8981 2879.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant, Unit 1/ 52, ÊMarina Boulevard, 8981 4949.ÊÊÊ
Swiss Cafe & Restaurant, 60 Smith Street, 8981 5079.
Dragon Palace Restaurant, 7 Finniss Street, 8981 1233.
Passage To India Restaurant, 50 Smith Street, 8981 4340.

Entertainment
In Darwin it is illegal to consume alcohol in a public place within two kilometres of a licensed premises without a permit. That covers just about everywhere in the city. However, a few foreshore places are exempt, and the Visitor Information Centre can advise. There is no doubt that Darwin is the beer drinking capital of Australia, after all the Darwin stubby holds 2 litres (3.5 pints)! But there are rules and regulations regarding the selling and imbibing of alcohol, and they are as follows: As a general rule, hotels trade between 10am to 10pm Mon-Fri, with extended weekend hours. Nightclubs are hopen until 6am, but some do not open till 10pm. Roadhouses can operate 24 hours, depending on their licence. The trading hours for takeaway alcohol are 10am-10pm Mon-Fri and Sun. Trading hours for Saturday and public holidays are 9am-10pm.

The legal age for drinking in a licensed establishment is 18 years. In-house hotel guests can usually order liquor 24 hours a day. The MGM Grand Darwin Hotel & Casino, on Gilruth Avenue, 8943 8888, is the city's top entertainment venue. Apart from keno, roulette and every game of chance you can think of, there are European and Asian restaurants, bars, and a disco from 11pm-6am on Friday and Saturday nights.

Shopping
Darwin has all the shops, stores and facilities a city should have for residents and tourists alike. Shops trade hseven days a week, 9am-5pm, with late trading to 9pm on Thursday and Friday. Many items are for sale that are typical of the Northern Territory, such as handcrafted leather goods, local fashion items, and the bushmen's famous Akubra hats. There is also a wide selection of Aboriginal arts and crafts, including bark paintings, carvings, fish nets and hooks, didgeridoos and hand-painted fabrics such as those made by the Tiwi people on Melville Island, as well as the works of many very talented local artists, potters and weavers. The Smith Street Mall is the main shopping area, and there are shopping centres at Casuarina and Palmerston. The large hotels, of course, have the usual range of boutiques and souvenir shops.

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Galleries

For a small city, Darwin has a large selection of galleries and shops catering for the collector of arts and crafts. Featured are works from both prominent local and interstate artists, and styles range from contemporary art to traditional Aboriginal. The Visitor Information Centre has a complete list, but here is one you should inspect.

Raintree Aboriginal Art Gallery, 14 Knuckey Street, 8981 2732, which is also the only outlet for the Raintree Collection of fashion day wear and casual mix and match.

Markets
The Big Flea Market, Darwin's oldest market, is held every Sunday, 8am-2pm, at Rapid Creek Shopping Centre on Tower Road.

The Parap Market is held hevery Saturday, 8am-2pm, and many people visit in search of breakfast or brunch. There are fresh fruit drinks and ices, plus stalls offering South-East Asian soups and satays. There are also second-hand books and knick-knacks.

At Banyan Junction, next to the Transit Centre in Mitchell Street, an international food market is held every day from 6pm, against a backdrop of Melbourne trams.

Every Friday 5pm-10pm during the Dry season, the Palmerston Night Market is held in Goyder Square. There are arts and crafts stalls, a wide choice of culinary delights and local musicians. Buses hdepart Darwin terminal (route 8) at 5.15pm and return 8.30 or 9.40pm. Buses leave Casuarina (route 9) at 5.30pm, return times as above.

Mindil Beach Sunset Market is held heach Thursday from about 5pm-10pm, May to October. It offers a variety of taste treats from such lands as Indonesia, Laos, Sri Lanka, Thailand, The Philippines, South America, as well as some fair dinkum Aussie tucker. There are also arts and crafts stalls.

Points of Interest
A stroll around the city will take you to most of the important historical sites.

The Tree of Knowledge, behind the Civic Centre on Harry Chan Avenue, has been a locally-famous landmark through the town's history. It is a banyan tree (Ficus virens), a species revered by Buddhists worldwide as the 'tree of knowledge' under which Buddha gained enlightenment.

Christchurch Cathedral was built in 1975 using some of the ruins of the original cathedral which was devastated by Cyclone Tracy.
Brown's Mart, cnr Harry Chan Avenue & Smith Street, 8981 5522, was intended as a mining exchange when it was built in the 1882. It has served many purposes through the years, despite the roof being blown off by two cyclones. In recent years, the exposed roof framing was extended to increase its lateral stability, and the building was converted to a community theatre.

The Old Town Hall is in Smith Street, and when it was erected in 1883 during a mining boom, it created, along with Brown's Mart and Christchurch, a streetscape of stone. In World War II it was used for naval administration, and after that was an art gallery. Now, the ruined walls make a dramatic backdrop for outdoor theatre.

The Old Courthouse and Police Station, cnr Smith Street and The Esplanade, was built in 1884 for the South Australian government, in early South Australian style. Cornerstones connected the courthouse to the police station with a cellblock in the back. The navy used these buildings from World War II until Cyclone Tracy. The interior was then reconstructed, while retaining the facade, and the building now houses the offices of the Administrator of the Northern Territory.

Government House has been known as The Residency and also as The House of Seven Gables, and is an 1883 replacement in stone of a timber structure built 13 years earlier, which suffered a white ant attack. Verandahs with louvres, providing the main living area, encircle the building. The gardens and gables certainly give it a colonial look.

Hotel Darwin, in The Esplanade, is one of Darwin's oldest hotel sites. The original pub, The Palmerston, was proud of its 'accommodation suitable for ladies' when it opened in 1883. It was severely damaged by Cyclone Tracy and forced to close for 18 months. A convention and function centre was added to the rebuilt hotel in 1983. It is now the Carlton Hotel Darwin.
Admiralty House, The Esplanade, is one of the few tropical-style houses still surviving from the 1920s, and is now used as an arts and crafts gallery and tearooms.

Lyons Cottage, cnr Knuckey Street & The Esplanade, was built in 1924-25 to house the manager of the British Australia Telegraph Company (BAT). The Georgian Revival-style bungalow was later occupied by one-time Darwin mayor John Lyons. Among its innovations is a separate kitchen in the rear, linked to the residence by a covered walkway for protection against the tropical climate. The house is now the BAT Museum, and admission is free, 8981 1750. It is open daily 10am-4.30pm.

Victoria Hotel (The Vic), 8981 4011, in the centre of the Mall, has survived everything thrown at it, including bombs and a cyclone. When it was built in 1894, it was called the North Australian Hotel, and has since undergone a name change and four major reconstructions, although always maintaining its architectural integrity. The Star Village, opposite The Vic, is a shopping arcade, built before the war and housed one of Darwin's early cinemas. The original entrance and projection bridge is still the modern day entrance.

The Commercial Bank, cnr The Mall & Bennett Street, retains the colonnade from the original 1893 'Stone Bank'. The bank was so nicknamed because the Commercial Bank of Australia had chosen to build in local stone to counter the Tin Bank erected by a nearby competitor.

The Chinese Temple, in Wood Street, was heavily hit by the cyclone, which left only the floor, masonry block for the altars and the stone lions, all of which are incorporated in the current temple, built in steel and concrete. The simple yet elegant curved roof is new, and the entire 1978 structure received approval from Singapore-based religious leaders. The temple is open Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am 3pm.

The National Trust headquarters are housed in Myilly Point Heritage Precinct, at 2 Khalin Avenue, on the outskirts of the city centre. It is composed of four pre-World War II houses, built originally for high-ranking government employees. The Trust has an information centre and a gift shop, and is open Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm, 8981 2848.

The Botanic Gardens, in Gardens Road off Gilruth Avenue, were first planted by Dr Maurice Holtze more than a century ago. They have the Southern Hemisphere's largest array of tropical palms, an orchid farm, nursery, rainforest, waterfall and wetlands flora, as well as an amphitheatre where there are often live concerts. Admission is free and the gardens are open Mon-Fri 7.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 8.30am-5pm.

Aquascene, 28 Doctors Gully Road at the end of The Esplanade, 8981 7837, has become Darwin's most popular attraction. Every day, at high tide, hundreds of fish come in from the sea to be fed, and you can be there to serve them. Opening times depend on the tides, so it is best to enquire at your hotel reception, or ring Aquascene direct. Prices are $5.50 adult, $3.30 child.

The Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, in Conacher Street, Fannie Bay, 8999 8211, features galleries of Aboriginal Man and of Oceania, full of art, artifacts, maps, photos, flora and fauna - including the legendary Sweetheart, a huge crocodile which used to terrorise trolling fishermen. The museum is also a research and scientific institute, categorising new species of plants and animals each year. ÊIn the Art Gallery, there are works by Lloyd Rees, Sidney Nolan, Clifton Pugh, Russell Drysdale, Donald Friend and Arthur Streeton, among others. It is open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-5pm and admission is free.

Wishart Siding is housed in the original buildings of the Northern Territory's now-defunct railway, where the Arnhem Highway branches off from the Stuart Highway, south of Darwin.

The Australian Aviation Heritage Centre, on the Stuart Highway, Winnellie, is open daily 9am-5pm, 8947 2145. Its major exhibit is a B52 bomber on permanent loan from the US Air Force, one of only two displayed outside the USA. Also of interest is the wreckage of a Zero Fighter shot down on February 19, 1942, during the first air raid on Darwin. There are many other exhibits from World War II, as well as displays documenting the history of aviation in the Northern Territory. Admission is $11 adult, $6 child and $28 family. The East Point Military Museum, at East Point Reserve, has many exhibits, including a 15 minute movie with actual footage of the 1942 bombing of Darwin. It is open daily 9.30am-4.30pm, 8981 9702.

Fannie Bay Gaol Museum, on East Point Road, 8999 8290, is open daily 10am-4.30pm, and admission is free. The gaol closed in 1979 after 84 years of service, and opened as a museum in 1983. The gaol was emptied in 1942, after Japan bombed Darwin, and again in 1974, after Cyclone Tracy damaged the complex. Fourteen men were hanged in the gaol, the last two in 1952.

Indo Pacific Marine in Lambell Terrace, Larrakeyah, 8981 1294, is not really a museum, but rather a marine display. It features living coral reef eco-systems which have been isolated from the sea, and is one of four such exhibitions in the world. It is open 10am-5pm daily, and as it takes at least an hour to see everything, the management closes the doors one hour before closing time. Price of admission is $16.40 adult, $6 child.

Crocodylus Park, in McMillans Road, Berrimah, 8922 4500, is Darwin's newest attraction. It feaures crocodiles, of course, as well as other interesting wildlife, including lions and tigers. The park is open 9am-5pm daily, and prices are $19.50 adult, $10 child and $49 family.

Festivals
The Northern Territory is renowned for its bizarre festivals and carnivals. One of the oddest is the Beer Can Regatta in which vessels made almost completely of beer cans race on Darwin Harbour in August. One of the major Aboriginal festivals is the Barunga Festival held over the long weekend in June. Aborigines from all over the Territory gather at Barunga, 80km (50 miles) south-east of Katherine, for four days of traditional events such as dancing, fire lighting, and boomerang and spear throwing contests. The Darwin Cup Carnival in July/August is held over six weeks of fashion, food, frivolity, and yes, there is also a horse race.

Facilities
Cricket - indoor and outdoor games have a large following.

Cycling - pushbikes, tandems and mountain bikes are available. For information, contact the Darwin Amateur Cycling Club, 8953 4360.

Football - Australian Rules and Rugby Union are popular, with some support for Rugby League. Both indoor and outdoor soccer are played.

Horse Racing - regular meetings are held at the Fannie Bay Racecourse.

Swimming - it is inadvisable to swim in the ocean between October and May due to the presence of the box jellyfish. During this time the locals tend to use the inland waterways such as Berry Springs and Howard Springs, or municipal pools in Darwin, Casuarina, Nightcliff, and Palmerston. Swimmers should check carefully for any signs warning of crocodiles.

Sailing - ocean and harbour sailing are available. Contact the Darwin Sailing Club, 8981 1700, or the Darwin Trailer Boat Club, 8981 6749.

Ten pin bowling - Darwin Ten Pin Bowling, 8985 4416.

Squash - courts can be found at a number of locations including the Darwin Squash and Aerobics Centre, 8948 4889; Howard Springs Squash Courts, 8983 2907.

Water skiing - contact the Northern Territory Ski Association, 8981 6630.

Tennis - contact the Darwin Tennis Centre, 8985 2844, or Tennis Association, 8981 2181. Night tennis is popular.

Driving Through The Territory
Many people decide to drive independently through the Northern Territory and Central Australia, and enjoy the experience. You are, of course, free to spend as much, or as little, time at any one place, and there is no lost time waiting for other people who are interested in something that leaves you cold. To visit some places, such as Arnhem Land and Bathurst and Melville Islands, a tour is the only way to go, but to others you are free to come and go as you please. There are a few things to remember when travelling independently, and by following a few simple rules your holiday can be a thing to remember, not something you would rather forget.

Make sure your vehicle is suitable for the roads you will encounter, and that you have a basic tool kit, plus spare fan belt, radiator hoses and tyre. Many of the locals carry two spare tyres.

Always carry ample supplies of petrol and water. Plan your trip using a reputable map, and before leaving check on road conditions.
Always tell someone where you are going, and when you expect to return.

If your car breaks down, stay with it. It is much easier for rescuers to find a car than people wandering on their own.
Keep a sharp lookout for wandering animals, especially at night.

Remember that crocodiles are active in Northern Territory waters, so observe the signs, and swim only in designated safe areas.
If you are leaving your car in the sun, make sure the windows are down a little to avoid the windscreen being blown out by expanding air.

Never leave pets or children in a parked car, even in the shade.

Outlying Attractions
South of Darwin

Palmerston
Palmerston is a new town, 20km (12 miles) south of Darwin, which was designed to become a self-sufficient city. The present population is around 8000, and four suburbs have been developed, but it is envisaged that it will grow very quickly. The town has many tourist attractions, and foremost among them is Marlow Lagoon, noted for its year-round swimming, playground, barbecue and other facilities. The town also has a nine-hole golf course and a sport and leisure centre Êwith an olympic-sized pool and a gymnasium.

Howard Springs
Situated 34km (21 miles) south of Darwin, on and around the Stuart Highway, Howard Springs is the centre for Howard Springs Nature Park. The Park has the closest and most attractive public fresh water swimming pool to Darwin. Next to the Park is the Territory's only duck and goose hunting reserve. There is also a road leading off nearby to the Gunn Point fishing paradise. ÊShooters need a permit, and there is an official shooting season, so enquiries should be made at a police station, or a branch of the Parks & Wildlife Commission, 8983 1001. Hunters and fishermen should also be aware that this is saltwater crocodile country, and they love fish and birds.

Noonamah
The town of Noonamah is 40km (25 miles) south of Darwin on the Stuart Highway, and its main attraction, the Crocodile Farm, is 2km before the town itself. The Farm is the first and largest in Australia and has more than 7000 residents, including giant crocs, baby crocs, pygmy crocs, an albino croc and American alligators. The reptiles are bred here for their skin and meat. The Farm is open daily 9am-4pm, and feeding time is 2pm daily, with an extra feeding on Sunday at 11am. Entry is $10 adult, $5.50 children, 8988 1450.

Berry Springs
Territory Wildlife Park is 10km (6 miles) west of the Stuart Highway turnoff, which is 48km (30 miles) south of Darwin. The park is a world-class wildlife sanctuary set in more than 400ha (988 acres) of bushland, and exhibits native and feral animals of the North Territory. It is designed on an open range plan, without bars or cages. The park is open daily 8.30am-6pm, with last visitors admitted at 4pm. Fees are $18 for adults, $9 children, $40 per family, 8988 7200.

Next door to the wildlife park is the Berry Springs Nature Park. The springs create natural swimming pools fringed with rainforest. They are open year-round, 8.30am-6.30pm, although they are temporarily closed after very heavy rains. There are grassed picnic grounds and barbecue facilities, 8988 6310.

Batchelor
Batchelor is 13km (8 miles) west of the Stuart Highway, from the turnoff 87km (53 miles) south of Darwin. It was established as a town for miners working the Rum Jungle Uranium Mine in 1954. The mine closed in 1963 as the remaining ore was uneconomic to treat. The treatment plant closed in 1971 when the stockpiled ore had been processed. The site, which has been rehabilitated, can be visited, but only on tours organised by Batchelor Caravillage, Rum Jungle Road, 8976 0166.

Batchelor also has some relics from World War II, when it was the site of an air base, bombed by the Japanese in 1942. Its main function now, though, is as the gateway to Litchfield Park, one of the Territory's newest parks.

Accommodation is available at the Caravillage mentioned above, powered sites $23 for two, cabins $85-90 for two; and The Rum Jungle Motor Inn, 8976 0123 - 22 units, licensed restaurant, bistro, swimming pool, barbecue - $110 a double.

Tourist information can be obtained from the above two establishments.


Litchfield National Park
The 65,700ha (162,279 acres) park features permanent water and changing terrain that makes it one of the better bush walking areas in the Top End. There are monsoonal rainforests, hot springs, the Tabletop range escarpment with its imposing sandstone outcrops, spring fed creeks, huge groves of cycads and historic tin mines. For the more adventurous there is the Lost City. This limestone rock formation appears to be a huge petrified city of castles, statues, people and animals. It is quite a find, hiding deep in the Park, and is only accessible by 4WD, horseback or to the hardy bushwalker. The rest of the area is accessible by conventional and 4WD vehicles, and is a photographer's delight. Camping facilities are available. Before venturing into the Park it is advisable to obtain a map of the area from any of the businesses in Batchelor, and to call Road Report, 1800 246 199, for up to date information on the Park's road conditions, and the Parks & WIldlife Commission, 8976 0282, for further information on the park.

Adelaide River
The town of Adelaide River is 110km (68 miles) south of Darwin on the Stuart Highway. It is situated on a river of the same name, and was a major military centre during World War II. Attractions include the War Cemetery, Snake Creek Arsenal and Robin Falls. The pub is worth a visit, and the owners also offer some good value tours of the local region, 8976 7047.



East of Darwin

Humpty Doo
Humpty Doo is situated on the Arnhem Highway, 11km (7 miles) east of the Stuart Highway, and 45km (28 miles) from Darwin. A very large crocodile on the roadside, complete with boxing gloves, tells you that you are entering 'croc country', which is a good thing to keep in mind. The town is mainly a service centre for the rural belt, and has basic facilities and services. It was the site of the Humpty Doo Rice Growing Project, which began in 1956 using water stored in the nearby Fogg Dam, but was abandoned in the early 1960s.

Attractions in the town include: Graeme Gow's Reptile World, a display of some of the most deadly reptiles in the world. It is hopen daily 8.30am-5pm, 8988 1661; the Humpty Doo Hotel, Ê8988 1372, which hosts the annual Darwin Stubby Drinking Competition in July; and the Adelaide River Queen, a flat-bottomed river boat that departs Adelaide River Bridge for cruises along the river, 8988 8144. There are regular departures for the two and a half hour cruises along a stretch of river which is home to about 60 crocs and prolific bird and animal life. The croc feeding sessions enable visitors to see the speed and power of these reptiles as they actually jump out of the water to catch the food.

Kakadu National Park
Kakadu National Park is a natural wonderland - 20,000sq km (7,720 sq miles) of magnificent sights, sounds and experiences. It has a World Heritage listing, and is owned by the Aborigines under the Gagudju Association. Kakadu begins about 250km (155 miles) east of Darwin on the Arnhem Highway, and is made up of three regions: the almost inaccessible Arnhem plateau; the rolling lowlands; and the flood plains. There are 120 known rock galleries of Aboriginal art along the escarpment, with those at Obiri Rock and Nourlangi Rock being the most easily accessible. It is extremely important to remember that the galleries are very old and they are still important and significant to the Aboriginal people today. PLEASE KEEP TO THE MARKED PATHWAYS, AND DO NOT TOUCH ANY PAINTED SURFACE.

Although almost one-third of Kakadu is bare rock, the rest is lush lowlands which support 960 identified species of plants. There is also an incredible variety of animal life, with 51 species of native mammals. Other creatures include crocodiles and frill-necked lizards. ÊA cruise on the Yellow Waters Billabong or South Alligator River offers one of the best opportunities to see the water flowers and wildlife.

There are excellent bushwalks throughout the park, and drives into the bush lead to spectacular sights such as Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls. Probably the best way to see Kakadu is with a tour operator who knows all the history and can show you the special and unique places, and many are available in Darwin. If you decide to travel on your own, you should call into the Bowali Visitor Information Centre near Jabiru, 8938 1120, for advice, brochures and to pay your $16.25 park fee. There is also a Tourist Centre in Tasman Plaza, Jabiru, 8979 2548.

Accommodation in Kakadu ranges from the luxury of a four-star crocodile shaped hotel in Jabiru (Gagudju Crocodile Hotel), 8979 2800, to the peace and tranquility of the Kakadu Resort, 8979 0166, or the Gagudju Cooinda, 8979 0145, through to caravan sites and camping grounds.

Arnhem Land
Arnhem Land is the area east of Kakadu National Park, and is traditionally inhabited by the Aborigines. A restricted number of tours take visitors through tropical bush abundant with wildlife and on to the coastal dunes from which the seascapes are truly magnificent. A permit is required for entry into this area, and can be obtained from the Tiwi Lands Council, Highway House, Bishop Street, Stuart Park, 8981 4898. The rock galleries of Aboriginal Art in Arnhem Land are generally regarded as even more impressive than those in Kakadu, but they can only by visited whilst on an organised tour.


North of Darwin

Bathurst and Melville Islands
The islands are 80km (50 miles) off the coast of Darwin, and are owned by the Tiwi Aborigines. Until recently, the islands had received almost no visitors from the mainland for thousands of years, but there are now day and half-day tours to Bathurst Island, or you can stay overnight at Putjimirra camp on Melville Island. The tours are offered by Tiwi Tours, 8924 1115, and are ex Darwin.

Cobourg Peninsula/Victoria Settlement
The peninsula north-east of Darwin is in Arnhem Land, and was where a brave but futile attempt was made to first settle the area. The ruins of the Victoria Settlement at Port Essington can still be seen, but a permit is required. In the early1990s an environmentally sensitive wilderness habitat called Seven Spirit Wilderness, opened on the Cobourg Peninsula, 8979 0277.



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